16 hours ago
Saturday, 24 December 2016
What could say 'Christmas' more than a battalion of Hessians...?
The von Ditfurth fusilier regiment c. 1776 - standard Hinchliffe castings, originally raised by John Ray back in the early 1980s and repaired, re-flagged and re-based by me earlier this year.
Friday, 23 September 2016
Armand Louis de Gontaut, Duc de Lauzun by the outrageously talented Doug Mason. Lauzun and his trumpeter are radical conversions (the original figure is cut down to a bare torso, and the uniform and details built back up from wire and soldier) of Gilder figures.
I recommend clicking on the photos to really appreciate the level of detail - the flowing pelisse, flapping sabertache, etc. create a real sense of movement and animation. The painting is pretty sharp too - no one does 'bling' better than DM.
Now all i need to do is create the Legion hussars - don't hold your breath....
Tuesday, 3 May 2016
Sunday, 28 February 2016
|Cornwallis by Steve Hezzlewood, on a Gilder Hinchliffe horse, Gromits by Dixon.|
|John Graves Simcoe converted from the Foremost Ney.|
|An idea shamelessly nicked from Phil Robinson.|
|More Hinchliffe, with a little tweeking.|
Tuesday, 14 July 2015
|Forty year old Gilder 'specials' recently re-based.|
- Sand (you don't want any grit or stones, i sieve mine through a tea strainer).
- PVA (the good stuff like UniBond, don't waste your time with watery kids glue or Wilcos own brand).
- Filler (either powder or ready mixed).
- Paint (doh!).
- Grit, small stones, cork chips, etc.
- A coir broom head (or a model railway long grass type product if you're feeling flash).
|An all earth base seems to work for these engineers.|
- Plant any long grass first. Ahead of time i chop clumps of bristles off the broom head and dunk one end in PVA, left for half an hour you then have a clump of grass ready to stick to your base. The wife finds it hilarious when i stick my fingers together, so i try to oblige by attaching the long grass clumps to the base with superglue.
- Apply any patches of bare earth next. If using powder filler i'd recommend mixing your filler with brown paint and PVA, rather than water (less likely to chip, and if it does you won't get an nasty white spot glaring at you). These days i use Wilcos ready mixed 'knot a problem' brown wood filler which comes in a pleasing mid brown, and is dirt cheap. Apply the filler in a thin layer with a palette knife, sculpting tool, or similar, and leave plenty of texture - don't flatten it out.
- Next place a few small stones into the filler before it dries; a wash of PVA is also a good idea to make sure they're not going to shift later. For some reason these stones look better on the earth areas than on the grass, but don't take my word for it....
- Leave to set. I base coat the earth areas next, although you could leave this til later.
- Apply a sand and PVA mix to the rest of the base - this is your (not long) grass. You want a fairly dry mix that resembles damp sand. Apply with your trusty blade and fluff it up a bit if it seems too flat. You may be able to save painting time later by adding a fairly bright grass green to the sand and glue mix.
- Paint. Choice of colours is always a personal preference, although i'd always recommend erring on the side of lighter and brighter. For what it's worth my recipe is Humbrol Grass Green (matt 80) dry brushed with Pale Yellow (matt 81) for the sand/grass; a chocolate brown emulsion, drybrushed with Humbrol Sand (matt 63) with a further highlight of sand and white for the earth areas; and then sand, drybrushed with a sand/white mix for any stones.
|Dan Morgan is unimpressed - 'If it's Cowpens then my base should look frosty'.|
So there we have it, i've managed to make a very simple process seem far too complicated....
And if in any doubt have a look at examples by someone who really knows what they are doing, such as John Ray , Doug Mason or Phil Robinson.
|I like consistency - so trees, buildings, etc. all get the same basing as the figures.|